ElectricMotorRewindingSolutions

Bearing splitter

4 Ways to Remove Electric Motor Bearing without a Puller

The bearings of an electric motor are normally removed using a bearing puller.  It has jaws to grab the back of the bearing and the threaded rod of the puller mounted at the end of the shaft.  When tightened,  the bearing got pulled out of the bearing journal 

There are times when you face the task of removing and changing the bearing of a motor but either your puller won’t fit or you just don’t have it.

There are other ways to do it and here are some of them.

1.   Using a vise and a pair of pry bar

2..  Cutting the outer race and then applying heat to the inner race of the bearing

3.   Using a bearing splitter

4.   Using the lathe machine and its coolant

I.    Removing a rotor bearing using a vise and a pair of pry bar

This method of removing the bearing is fast but it is necessary that the vise is securely mounted on a workbench. . 

a)  Clamp the rotor in a vise.  Align the edge of the vice jaw to the rotor bearing.

Shows how aligning the rotor bearing with the vise jaw gives you the proper position of the prybar for a good leverage
Aligning the rotor bearing on the vise jaw

b)  For small bearings sizes 6203, 6202, 6201 or smaller, you can use a pair of longer, flat tipped screwdrivers, with the same length if possible.  For bigger bearings sizes 6204 and 6206, a pair of pry bars are appropriate.

c) If the shaft is rusty, polish it up first using emery cloth then spray it with lubricant.

d)  Pry the bearing out.

Some rotors have an internal fan made of aluminum, and the bearing is right behind it. Mount the rotor on the vise in a way that the fins of the fan are butting on the vise jaw to avoid damaging the fan. Pry the bearing out 

Shows how to pry out rotor bearing using a pair of prybar.  On smaller bearing sizes, two flat tipped screwdrivers might be enough.
Prying out the bearing of a rotor mounted on a vise

II.     Removing the bearing by cutting the outer race then applying heat to the inner race.

There are cases where removing a bearing is not possible with a puller like when there is no room for the puller jaw or prying it out can be challenging when the bearing is beside a flimsy fan.  Heating the bearing will be your option

Bearings have an inner race which is tightly fitted in the shaft and an outer race that spins.  Steel expands when heated so if the bearing inner race is hot and the shaft is cold it just slides out.  

The heating process has to be fast otherwise the shaft will also heat up and both of them will expand. The bearing then will still be tightly held in place on the shaft.     

In this case, you have to redo the process by cooling down the whole rotor first and then try heating the bearing again.

Procedure of removing a bearing using heat.

a)  Secure the rotor in a vise

b)  Using a thin disk grinder, cut the outer race of the bearing in two places until it falls off together with the balls. For smaller bearings you can use a Dremel tool.

On bigger bearings, you can use a cutting torch but make sure to cut it off to the side so that the molten metal will not fall on the shaft.  

c)  Let the rotor and the bearing inner race cools down. Put a fan. 

d)  Using a torch, heat the bearing inner race.  You can use either oxyacetylene torch or a portable MAPP torch.

e)  With your Kevlar heat resistant gloves on, pull the bearing out otherwise use a small piece of metal to gently slide the bearing inner race out of the shaft.

f)   On bigger bearings, if you position the rotor upside down, the bearing inner race will probably just fall off.

III.    Removing the bearing from the shaft using a bearing splitter plate. 

One advantage of a bearing splitter is that you can remove bearings fast.  I can tell you that because I use the arbor press instead of the puller attachment that sometimes comes with the splitter.

If you have an arbor press and a bearing splitter plate, you can literally remove a bearing in less than 10 seconds.  That fast. 

Second advantage of it is that if the bearing is too close to the fan that even a puller jaw won’t fit.  

Splitter plate can be thin enough to fit behind those bearings.

The third advantage is when the bearing to be removed is fairly new and needs to be reused.

For example, a brand new bearing was installed only to realize that a snap ring has to go behind it. It has to be removed and the snap ring installed first before the bearing.

Normally, since the bearing is cheap we just replace it with a new one.  Besides, when you use the puller, the seal gets damaged. 

Not so with the bearing splitter. Its flat surface puts even pressure on the inner and outer race of the bearing. Although replacing it is still ideal.

Procedure in using a bearing splitter and a press to remove rotor bearings 

a.  Loosen the splitter bolt nuts until the splitter plate clears the diameter of the bearing.

b.  Set the bearing splitter flat side up on the arbor press base.

c.  Position the bearing on the splitter 

d.  With one hand on the arbor press’s lever arm and the other holding the rotor, press the bearing out of the shaft.

The process can also be made faster by keeping those nuts loose.  In this way, you can easily position the bearing on the splitter, close the two plates together, and press the bearing out.

Another suggestion is to put a spacer between the rotor shaft and the arbor press ram shaft so that the position of the arbor press lever is at the ideal spot where you can get a good leverage

The disadvantage is that you need two people to remove bearings on a bigger rotor because of its weight.

Also, some arbor press designs are not suited for this purpose.  The base should have an opening that can accommodate the diameter of the rotor.

Pressing out the bearing using a bearing splitter mounted on an arbor press

If a motor repair shop does a lot of rotor bearing replacements, modifying the base of the arbor press can be functional and productive.

For DIYers who don’t have an arbor press, setting the splitter on two blocks of wood and tapping the shaft with a rubber mallet to remove the bearing will also work.  

IV.   Removing the bearing from the shaft using heat and lathe coolant.

Removing the bearing stuck in the rotor shaft using a puller and oxyacetylene torch can be challenging if the bearing journal is already damaged, corroded, or oversized.

Bearing balls can also collapse making a puller useless or in cases where the outer race of a roller bearing comes off leaving the inner race on the shaft.

Heating the bearing inner race evenly white rotating and making use of the lathe coolant is one option.

Also, when you have to set the rotor on the lathe to measure the shaft runout, might as well remove the bearing there.

Procedure in removing stubborn bearing out of a rotor shaft 

a.  Cut the bearing outer race using a cutoff disk grinder or oxy-acetylene cutting torch if not out already.

b.  Set up the rotor on the lathe.

c.  Set the lathe speed to around 45 RPM and let it run.

d.  Turn on the lathe machine coolant and point the hose tip to the rotor shaft about an inch and a half (3.8 cm.) away from the bearing inner race.

e.  Heat the bearing inner race using the rosebud tip of an oxyacetylene torch.  

f.  When the bearing comes hot, you can just slide it out.

image showing torch heating the bearing inner race stuck on shaft and coolant pointed on the adjacent shaft.
Removing bearing inner race using lathe machine coolant and oxyacetylene torch

There are other practical ways for sure that other motor mechanics use to remove bearings without a puller 

If you have a problem with your electric motor or you want me to post a particular subject about it, please write it on the comment section and I’ll be happy to post it for you.

If you have other ideas, please share them below in the comments section so that others may benefit from it. I’m sure there’s a lot more ways to remove a bearing from the shaft besides a puller.

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Removing Gear, Coupling, and Pulley from an Electric Motor Shaft

removing the coupling, gear,or pulley (sheave) from an electric motor shaft

Electric motors are used to run machinery, pumps, compressors, blower fans, and all other kinds of equipment.  Without motors, none of these machines will move. 

The shafts of the electric motors are coupled to these machines using some kind of attachment.  It could be a sheave (pulley), a coupling, or a mounted gear.

When electric motors are up for repair, it has to be disassembled and parts that are defective need to be repaired.

The end bell also called the end shield or end cap of the motor cannot be removed and bearing housing inspected if there is something attached to the shaft.

This post includes:

Steps on how to remove gear from electric motor shaft

Steps on how to remove a sheave (pulley) from an electric motor shaft

Tips on how to remove a coupling from an electric motor shaft

Tools you need to remove gear, coupling, and sheave (pulley). What to do if you don’t have them.

7 Steps on how to remove gear from The electric motor shaft

Electric motor shafts with helical gears are used on conveyor motors, roller motors, and gearbox motors while spur gears are commonly used on the motor as a spline for its brake or clutch. 

Describes a spur gear on the shaft used as spline for electric motor brake
Spur gear on the shaft used as spline for electric motor brake

Here are the steps:

  1. Before removing gear from the motor shaft, measure the distance of the gear to the end of the shaft. This is so that you can reinstall it back at the same position later.  Not unless it rests on a shoulder and/or a snap ring. 
  1. Check and remove anything that holds the gear to the shaft like a set screw or a snap ring. Sometimes a snap ring covered with grease is hard to see.
Describes a helical gear held by a snap ring on an electric motor  shaft
Helical gear held by a snap ring on an electric motor shaft

3. To remove gear from the shaft, use a two-jaw or a three-jaw puller.  

4. When a gear is tight that the jaw keeps on disengaging, use a chain grip.  This will keep the puller engaged.

5. Another way is to use a bearing separator and a bar-type puller.  Position the bearing separator behind the gear, screw in the threaded rods of the puller, and remove the gear. 

Describes a electric motor gear removal using a puller
Electric motor gear removal using a puller
  1. To remove a gear without a puller, use the rosebud tip of an oxyacetylene torch and heat the gear. As soon as it is hot, lightly tap it out.

            Use leather gloves and a face shield when using oxyacetylene 

  1. You can also use an arbor press if you are working on a small motor and the diameter of the end bell will fit the press.  Put a bearing separator behind the gear and press the gear out using the press. 

Removing a sheave (pulley) from the electric motor shaft 

Describes a sheave held on to the shaft using a key and bolt with washer
Sheave held on to the shaft using a key and bolt with washer

Some machines are coupled to the motor using v-belts and at times flat belts.

Sheave (pulley) is installed to the shaft either directly or through a hub or bushing.  

Electric motor sheave pulley with a bushing Is a two-part assembly.  Pulley is first unbolted and removed from the bushing then the bushing is removed from the shaft. 

Some pulleys have no bushing. It is only held to the shaft by a key and two set screws

This is how to remove pulley or sheave from the electric motor shaft:

1. Before removing the sheave pulley from the motor shaft, measure its distance to the end of the shaft. This is so that you can reinstall it back at the same position later

2. If it is held by a bushing, measure the face of the bushing to the end of the shaft.

3. Check for set screws and remove them. 

4. Pulley is usually bolted onto the bushing using four bolts. It also has two threaded holes to accommodate the jacking bolts for easy removal of the pulley.  Remove the bolts.

5. Spray the pulley, the bushing, and the shaft with an oil lubricant.

6. If the shaft is rusty, use an emery cloth or sandpaper to remove and clean the shaft.

7. Get two from the bolts that you have removed, and install them on the two threaded holes on the sheave pulley.  If the bolts are short, replace them with longer ones. Use this as jacking bolts

8. Tighten these two bolts to remove the pulley.  The bushing is tapered, so the pulley should just pop out. 

9. The bushing has a sliding fit to the shaft but because of corrosion and the key,  it could be tight.  One way of removing it is by the puller.  

10. Another way of removing it is by jamming a screwdriver on the split of the bushing.  This will allow for the bushing to increase its diameter for easy removal from the shaft. For pulleys that do not have bushing,  use either a two-jaw or three-jaw puller to remove it.

11. Do not grab it by the pulley groove or you will break it.  Some pulleys have bolt holes to accommodate the puller.

12. For pulleys that don’t have bushing, you can also use a bearing splitter and position it behind the pulley.  Put the puller jaw behind the splitter to remove the pulley. 

13.  If that doesn’t work, use heat.  Heat the pulley using the rosebud tip of oxyacetylene and soon as the pulley is hot, it should just slide out of the shaft.  Be cautious, it’s hot.

5 tips on how to remove a coupling from an electric motor shaft 

To describe a shaft jaw coupling held by a key and set screws
Shaft jaw coupling held by a key and set screws

1. Before removing the coupling from the motor shaft, measure its distance to the end of the shaft. This is so that you can reinstall it back at the same position later. The coupling could be flush to the end of the shaft, out, or in by a certain distance.  Make sure you take note of the position or have a picture. 

2. Check for set screws and remove them

3. Use a puller to remove the coupling.

To show a shaft flange coupling with a key and set screws (not shown)
A shaft flange coupling with a key and set screws (not shown)

4. Most couplings are a tight fit. If you’re having a hard time with the puller, combine it with heat. While the puller is engaged, heat the coupling using the rosebud tip of the oxyacetylene and soon as the temperature reaches about 300C, continue pulling it out with the puller

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